Fall is in the air...

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Which one of these guys is not named Haider?

One of these guys is a Scots-Irish Presbyterian. I wonder which one?

Three of theses guys are named Haider, a very common Shia name. We all work together here in Baghdad, and in order to know which Haider is which, we jokingly refer to them as Wahid, Thain, and Thalatha (1, 2, and 3). But every morning when we greet each other, and each night as the close of the day, we call each other "my brother." To say "my friend" would be insulting to the Haiders, and I am honored to do be able to think of them as brothers.

This photo was taken two days ago, as we went to lunch in an Iraqi restaurant to celebrate our work together, and to welcome the coming of Ramadan, which starts today.

But sadly, I can't show you their faces.

Doing that could get them killed.

If you ask an Iraqi, whom do you trust? The answer will almost invariably be "No one."

Two of the Haiders live in the same neighborhood, all are Shia, yet it was months before they would tell each other exactly where they lived. The level of trust here is nonexistent, and many Iraqis now rarely share personal information with people not well-known to them. And I know that I, at the risk of seeming uninterested, am cautious about asking.

Many of our staff carry two pieces of identification--one with a Sunni name, and another Shia. A young woman that used to work with us as a translator had an identification card that listed her place of residence as Sadr City, the penultimate address if trying to prove your Shia bona fides.


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